in the kitchen with…
Elizabeth Williams
Urbandale cook keeps Polish tradition alive.
Story by Carol McGarvey
Photography by Ben Lochard
Featured in November/December 2020
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For many families, Christmas is all about traditions, especially when it comes to food. It’s not a proper holiday without Mom’s sugar cookies, Grandma’s pies and a favorite aunt’s fruit bread or fudge.
For Elizabeth Williams of Urbandale, it’s all about keeping her Polish heritage alive, and that means one special dish—pierogi (pih-ROH-ghee), which are filled dumplings or “little pillows.” The dumplings involve wrapping unleavened dough around a savory or sweet filling. They are boiled in hot water, and then pan-fried before serving. Various cultures, from Ukrainian to other spots in central and eastern Europe, plus Mennonite communities, have similar dishes with different names.
The versatile specialties can be filled with cabbage, potatoes, sauerkraut, ground meats, farmer cheese, or mushrooms for a savory dish or with fruits such as blueberries or strawberries for a sweet version. Savory ones are often served with sour cream, fried onions, or both.
Mainstay recipe
Her mainstay pierogi recipe is one her mother made often. They are a must-have for Elizabeth’s Christmas Eve gathering, along with requests from her family many times throughout the year.
“My paternal grandparents came to America from Poland,” Elizabeth explains. “I grew up in a Polish neighborhood in Chicago, so traditions were strong.” In Polish tradition, Christmas Eve takes precedence over Christmas Day, and Poles fasted on Christmas Eve day until evening. The meal that night is called the Star Supper or Wigilia. Once the first star shines in the night sky, the fast can be broken for a feast. The star represents the Star of Bethlehem.
Christmas aside, many in the family request pierogi fairly frequently, along with other specialties she is known to make.
In some Polish families, there were twelve dishes served for the twelve apostles. More commonly, though, there were an odd number of dishes, representing good luck, as in five, seven, or nine dishes. Elizabeth says there were always nine dishes in her family. “Also, it’s a tradition for every member of the family to break off a piece of a communion-like wafer, oplatki. We broke off a piece from everyone and wished them well.”
Gifts from Santa came on the eve of St. Nicholas Day, December 6. Some gifts could come on Christmas Eve, but those were from Baby Jesus, not Santa.
An active cook
Elizabeth, a former English and speech teacher, and her husband John, who worked for International Harvester, have lived around the Midwest and in Beirut, Lebanon. They moved to Urbandale sixteen years ago to be closer to grandchildren. Two sons, Jason and Jim, live in Scottsdale, Arizona, and Aurora, Colorado. Two daughters, Katy and Tracey, live in Urbandale. There are six grandchildren.
Elizabeth is active in Herb Study Group and enjoys volunteering at the Cherry Glen Learning Farm near Saylorville Lake. She also loves to read, volunteer at her church, play bridge, and tend her vegetable and herb gardens. She enjoys entertaining her family and friends.
Christmas aside, many in the family request pierogi fairly frequently, along with other specialties she is known to make. “It gets harder and harder, with everyone’s various food preferences. Some are vegetarian or vegan. I myself a pescatarian (vegetables and fish).”
She likes to keep up holiday traditions. “We have to hold on to them. It’s especially important for kids to see that our heritage is important and is carried on,” she points out. Her two daughters, busy with families and jobs, are too busy to learn the art of making pierogi right now. But she’s happy to say that a son-in- law, Mark Kraft of Urbandale, wants to learn. •